Ulysse Nardin launches Freak watch [ONE OPS] The revolutionary impact of the first Freak more than two decades ago still challenges the fine watchmaking industry today

When launched in 2001, the Freak did more than change expectations for a Ulysse Nardin watch: it created a new paradigm in Swiss fine watchmaking.

Mechanical watches from Switzerland at that time had hands that showed the time, a dial for the hands to rest on, and a crown mounted on the side of the case to adjust the hands. But monsters don't have that. With no dial, no hands, and no crown, it reestablished the concept of the industry. Can unconventional watch designs, backed by huge advances in mechanical movement manufacturing, catch the eye of 21st century watch buyers?

You bet it can.

In the two decades since the Freak was first launched, it has become a cornerstone of contemporary high-end watchmaking. The technology it pioneered, essentially using high-tech silicon to reduce the stress on certain moving parts of a watch, has defined industry norms. It may have been outside the comfort zone of Swiss watchmaking at the time, but where Freak went, others followed.

These early models have become collectors' favorites, and further iterations have enriched the story, often by improving the Freak's technical capabilities and sometimes simply by extending the thrill of its borderless aesthetic.

Of these, Freak ONE remains, as its name suggests, the central point of the series. A freak among freaks. No dialing. No hands. No crown. It embodies the independent and free thinking of Freak and Ulysse Nardin.

At Dubai Watch Week, Ulysse Nardin continues the Freak story with the launch of the Freak ONE OPS – just like the ‘Operation’, a khaki and black watch that conveys inspiration for adventure. As always, it's backed by cutting-edge technology developed at Ulysse Nardin's Independent Integrated Manufacturing Factory, only now with a casual look.

It's been over twenty years since its inception and there's still nothing quite like Freak.

Freak One gets a camouflage treatment
Ulysse Nardin has created a Freak ONE OPS watch for Dubai Watch Week, a Freak ONE watch with a distinctive twist. Measuring 44 mm in diameter, the new watch features a black DLC titanium case with khaki green accents that complement the special sunburst pattern barrel lid and the watch’s integrated rubber strap.

The material story continues on the bezel, which is made from Carbonium®, an innovative material with exceptional strength and lightweight properties, made from the same carbon fiber used in the wings and fuselages of state-of-the-art aircraft. In fact, Carbonium® is made using scraps from the aircraft manufacturing process, resulting in a 40% lower environmental impact than other carbon composite materials. The manufacturing technique is organic, which means the marbled finish on the Freak ONE OPS bezel is unique to each watch.

Given that the watch has no dial, the Freak ONE OPS’s UN-240 in-house movement is clearly visible, its flying dial simultaneously delivering minute indications as it rotates on its own axis. Also on display are the oversized oscillator and balance spring, both in attractive blue silicon, recalling the existential role silicon plays in Freak’s unconventional legacy. The movement is automatic and has a 90-hour power reserve.

There are two one-piece straps to choose from: one with black and khaki “ballistic” rubber, and the other with a two-tone rubber strap in black and khaki. Both come with a black DLC titanium and black ceramic folding clasp. The strap also tells the environmental story of Ulysse Nardin. They are made from 30% recycled rubber from production waste.

The result is a bold, powerful piece that amplifies Freak’s story of bold design and in-house technical knowledge.

Freak [ONE OPS] is no ordinary watch
No dialing
Typically, mechanical watches hide their workings beneath the dial. But the Freak ONE OPS doesn’t have a dial. Its movement doubles as a minute hand, while the hour hand is a hand set on a rotating disc located beneath the movement.

no hands
The unconventional Freak ONE OPS has neither big hands nor small hands. Instead, its one-hour orbital rotating tourbillon becomes the minute hand, and the hour hand is replaced by a pointer on a rotating disc.

Material advantages
Freak ONE OPS features a black DLC titanium case topped by a bezel made of Carbonium®, a material first used in fine watchmaking by Ulysse Nardin in 2019. aerospace industry, meaning its environmental impact is 40% lower than other carbon composites. These fibers are just 7 microns in size and are woven together in an organic way to create a unique finish every time.

put your hands down
The Freak ONE OPS is powered by the UN-240 automatic movement with a 90-hour power reserve. The movement's flying disc and its silicon balance and escapement are suspended from a bridge that serves as the minute hand; a second bridge serves as the hour hand.

see the light
The hour and minute indicators and hour markers are coated with beige Super-LumiNova®, which glows green in low-light conditions.